How To Grow Raspberries – Which?

Some raspberries (Floricane) produce reeds each year. These new reeds grow all summer, rest in the winter and produce raspberries the summer before they die. Autumn fruit berries (Primocanes) produce new reeds in the spring and fruit in the autumn of the same year. These sticks can also bear fruit in the summer, so you can leave them in the previous, albeit smaller, second harvest.

How to grow raspberries: month after month

The best raspberry variety

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How we try raspberries

We planted rootless plants in the winter and then looked at their health and energy for two years. The plants were fed and watered every spring. In the second year, we picked and weighed ripe fruit each week, tested the sugar content (Brix test) and tasted so we could evaluate the taste and texture.

Take care of your plants


Although you can buy potted plants in the spring, rootless plants, which can be bought between November and March, are more common, cost less and are easier to plant in the garden than potted plants.

Raspberries need sun and fertile, well-drained and slightly acidic soil. Dig a shallow ditch, add well-rotted manure or garden mass and lay the sticks flat on the ground with the roots every 50 cm. Support the plants individually at stake or by tying them in rows at different wire heights. Cover the roots with soil and water the plants.

Grow a pot

You can grow raspberries in pots on the terrace or balcony. Put a stick in a deep pot about 45 cm in diameter. Use one Best Buy compost for containers and mix one together The best business mediumRemove the top inches of compost each spring and set it aside for fresh compost and controlled release feed. Keep the plant well hydrated, especially in hot and dry weather.

There was a huge difference in the size of the crop we got from our potted plants compared to the plants grown in the ground. Our pot-grown ‘Glen Ample’ plants produced only a third of the fruit planted in the ground (260 g per plant compared to 639 g per plant in the soil). The pot, which is grown ‘Tadmor’, gave about a quarter of the crop of the plant and ‘Valentina’ about half. However, the taste was better rated for the potted plants for both ‘Tadmor’ and ‘Glen Ample’, possibly because they received less water, which made the taste richer.

It is worth growing in a pot if you do not have a lot of space or do not want raspberry stalks to spread in your garden but do not expect a large harvest.


In the spring, feed open plants high in potassium, such as potassium sulfate. Mulch around the plants with compost to keep the soil moist.


Summer fruit varieties: When cutting, cut all the fruit pins back down to the ground and tie together six to eight strong new sticks from each plant. Cut out all the other sticks.

Autumn fruit varieties: If you want a double harvest of autumn berries, leave all the reeds uncut after the first harvest of the summer. This should lead to an earlier harvest of fruit in the summer of next year. When this fruit harvest is over, cut the fruit stalk to the ground. Fruit stems are the older wooden stems, not the new, greener and more flexible stems. Let other reeds grown that year produce an autumn harvest at the usual time.

How and when to harvest

Some fruit varieties: June to July

Autumn fruit varieties: June to October

Rectangular plants to keep the birds in check when the flower opens. Choose ripe fruits regularly as they do not last long. Old fruit on sticks sticks quickly in damp weather. Raspberries can be frozen well if you do not want to eat them right away. They make great jams too.

Common growth problems

Raspberry beetle

Raspberry beetles are a common problem and can ruin crops. Often the first signs of infection are small, brown, dried spots on ripe fruit near the stem that the beetle was working on. The light brown furry beetles are active between April and July, so set traps that attract adults and then drown. This will reduce the number, but it will not fully control them, so you can also spray the plants with pyrethrum based insecticide. Spray in the evening when there are fewer pollinators.

Read more about raspberry beetles.

Spur rot

Late blight is a fungal disease that causes purple spots to appear on new sticks. Cut out all infected sticks.

Read more about the eruption.

Reed’s disease

Cane rot is another fungal disease. It makes the leaves wither and the sticks die. Cut out infected sticks.

Read more

Botrytis (gray mold)

Botrytis causes the fruit to develop with gray mold and rot. Consider covering flowering plants in case of heavy rain to keep them dry.

Read more about botrytis (gray mold).

Raspberry virus

The symptoms of the raspberry virus are different. If the leaves get yellow spots or streaks, or the reeds and crops become noticeably weaker, remove them and replant new plants elsewhere.

Read more about viruses.

Reed spots

Symptoms begin as small purple spots on the sticks in May or June. They gradually increase in size and form cancers that look like shallow white pits with a purple frame. Sticks can kill or produce deformed fruit.

Read more about reed patches.

Mineral deficiency

Iron or magnesium deficient leaves can look like leaves with a viral infection. Deficiency is more likely to occur if all plants, regardless of variety, are affected, or if the problem arises in the first year or two from planting.

It is more likely to be a virus if the plants are also cut or twisted and if the yield is very poor. Another factor that indicates a viral infection is when some species are more influential than others.

Read more about mineral deficiency.